On Mines and Miners in Bolivia

Since we left Sucre we've travelled through Potosi (at 4100 metres above sea level its reputedly the highest city in the world) and the almost as high antiplano city of Oruro. From there we travelled to the city of Cochabamba where we have been for 5 days. Its a bustling, busy city with a wonderful climate - especially after the chilly antiplano. Cochabamba is also home to some of the most powerful social movements in Bolivia. We've been fortunate
enough to meet some gringos based here in Cochabamba with some wide knowledge and understanding of politics and society here in Bolivia. So thanks to Aaron, Ben, April and Paula for sharing some of your insights with us and helping us better understand what is happening in this tumultuous country. From here we travel back up high again on to La Paz and El Alto.

The two pictures above are shots from inside the infamous mountain mines (the Cerro Rico) of Potosi. Only Simon went down into the mine for a few hours. His experience (very unlikely to be repeated ever again!) and some conclusions are summed up in the article posted below which has been submitted to Green Left. Below also is an article by Ruth on the tragic Huarani mine dispute from Green Left Weekly and to the left is a picture of the impressive Cerro Rico itself towering over Potosi.

Going Underground in Bolivia
By Simon Butler

POTOSI – Before we descended into the mine our mini-bus (or micro) dropped us at the local “miner’s market” so we could buy sticks of dynamite, bags of coca leaves and a few 2 litre bottles of soft drink. These were gifts for some of the miners we were about to visit underground who still work the Cerro Rico – the famous mountain of silver that towers over the city of Potosi located 4100 metres above sea level in the Bolivian Andes.

From the 16th to the 18th centuries the wealth that poured out of the silver mines made Potosi one of the largest and richest cities in the world. Prospectors, priests, merchants and adventurers of all stripes flocked form around the world to this jewel in the Spanish colonial crown eager to share in the seeming inexhaustible wealth. Potosi was a city of ostentatious riches and insatiable greed. Some of the major city streets were, literally, paved with bars of silver. Elaborate churches and public buildings were erected throughout the city at great expense.

Today Potosi is one of the poorest cities in the poorest country in South America. As our micro took a circuitous route through the narrow one-way city streets up towards the Cerro Rico it revealed a town that retains only the faintest aspect of its former glamour. Most buildings are in a state of disrepair, roads are potholed and in poor condition, public infrastructure is almost non-existent and the silver paving stones disappeared long ago.

In its heyday the riches of Potosi were spirited away to help finance the heavily indebted Spanish Empire. During the 17th and 18th centuries this wealth flowed in increasing amounts directly into the coffers of the empire’s major creditors – Dutch and English bankers. It is no coincidence that England and The Netherlands subsequently became major colonial powers and were the world’s first to develop industrialised economies. The immense wealth extracted from Potosi provided a significant portion of the capital necessary to kickstart the industrial revolution and the emergence of the capitalist system.

From Potosi’s founding in 1545 colossal fortunes were generated via the forced labour of indigenous slaves at a frightful human cost. Potosi is the site of an immense genocide carried out against the region’s indigenous peoples. In his book The Open Veins of Latin America Uruguayan writer Eduardo Galeano estimates that 8 million indigenous miners were worked to their deaths under the whip of their Spanish slavedrivers. The early capitalist development of the western world is tainted with the blood of these millions.

Descent into the Mine

There are still 12,000 miners who support themselves through working in the Cerro Rico and mining still remains Potosi’s major industry. The big majority of these miners are of indigenous Quechan descent. Most of the pure silver deposits have been exhausted after 450 years of excavation. Today the workers mine for a composite ore containing tin, zinc and silver.
As we carefully made our way down the 40 or 50 metres to the 3rd level of the mine I quickly felt myself begin to sweat as the temperature rose to a stifling heat. The air was thick with particles and dust. After only a short period underground I was finding it difficult to breathe. Our guide warned us not to suck or lick our fingers for any reason because of the trace elements of asbestos and arsenic present throughout the mine.

Eventually, asbestosis or silicosis afflicts every miner who works underground in Potosi. Few miners who begin working as young men can expect to live longer than 50 years of age. It was evident that safety precautions in the mine are largely limited to hand gloves and hard hats. None of the miners were even equipped with face masks to protect against the tainted air. There are no guard rails, no mechanical lifts and no doctors on hand. Injured workers are carried out of the mine by their co-workers.

The lack of mechanisation in the mines ensures that the work is back-breaking, labour intensive and harsh. Some miners are fortunate enough to be able to afford to buy themselves small mechanical hand drills. But for most shovels, dynamite and hand picks are the near-antique tools of their trade.

The working conditions underground are both cramped and unhealthy. For over one third of the short time I was down the mine I was either forced to bend over double or had to crawl on my hands and knees through narrow passageways. Yet most miners labour in these conditions for 10 hours a shift, Monday through to Friday. They work these long hours without a meal break. Instead most chew large wads of coca leaves as a physical stimulant and a means to artificially repress hunger.

Precarious Lives

All the miners in Potosi are organised into cooperatives and lease their respective sections of the mine from the government for a fee of 6% of their earnings. The mining companies who purchase the refined minerals excavated from the mine have no legal obligation to concern themselves with the well-being of the miners. The pay of each worker is directly proportional to the amount of ore each cooperative supplies to the refineries.

The term ‘cooperative’ does not mean widespread cooperation is encouraged between miners. Tragically the cooperative system inexorably compels the miners into desperate competition with each other over the most productive areas. Our guide, a former miner himself, explained to us that fights break out between various groups of miners fairly regularly.

Members of the cooperatives are entitled to a government pension is they are badly injured underground. If they are killed at work then their immediate family is awarded this pension. However the current legislation only covers actual cooperative members. It takes four years of working in the mines before a worker can purchase a stake in a cooperative. At any one time this leaves hundreds of miners yet to become cooperative members working without even the most basic guarantees of support in case of severe injury.

Furthermore miners can apply for a government retirement pension if a doctor can certify that a miner has lost more than 50% of their lung capacity. But each miner can only be assessed once every four years. This means that a miner assessed to have, for example, only 55% lung capacity has no option but to work underground for a further four years before they can be assessed again. Meanwhile their health deteriorates further.

The appalling working conditions and the precarious lives of the miners are partly the legacy of the 500 years of the slavery, colonialism and economic subjugation of Bolivia by the ‘civilised’ west. This has transformed a nation rich in natural resources and products into a poverty stricken country. The predicament of Bolivia’s cooperative miners is also the consequence of the harsh neoliberal policies implemented during the 1980’s and 90’s that effectively reversed the 1952 nationalisation of Bolivia’s mines and threw 1000’s of former government employed miners out of work.

In recent years a series of powerful social movements has developed in Bolivia, particularly among the nation’s indigenous majority. This popular groundswell has identified the goal of refounding Bolivia on the basis of social justice, dignity and equality. To date this widespread desire for a different life has culminated in the election of radical president Evo Morales in December 2005. In his speech to a mass mobilisation in La Paz on October 12 Morales put to the crowd that “here our struggle has historically been against the neoliberal model, against a system, and I want to ask all of you, together, united, organized, to finish off this economic model that has caused so much damage to the country, and of course to all the working sectors.”

The dreadful working conditions I witnessed in the Cerro Rico speak eloquently that although the old system forced labour no longer exists, working people in Bolivia are still enslaved by an economic system that continually dehumanises and devitalises them. Only the elite minority who currently benefit from this system could deny the right of the Bolivian people to struggle “to finish off this economic model” once and for all. But for this just struggle to succeed solidarity from supporters around the world is becoming increasingly necessary.

BOLIVIA: Behind the 'tin war’ in Huanuni
By Ruth Ratcliffe

For two days in early October, the sides of the barren Posokoni Hill above the mining town of Huanuni, 150 kilometres southeast of Bolivia’s capital La Paz, were transformed into a war zone in the two most violent days since leftist Evo Morales was elected the country’s president last December.

On October 5-6, rival groups of miners battled for control of the hill’s tin deposits using dynamite and guns, leaving 17 miners and residents dead and 81 wounded.

The bloodshed in Huanuni is the latest tragic chapter in a long and complicated history of poverty and privatisation in the region.

Read the rest at www.greenleft.org.au/back/2006/687/687p16b.htm

Bolivia Beckons

We've finished our Spanish course and also our month long stay in Sucre. Our Spanish has improved out of sight and the course was well worth it. Well at least in Simon's case he hasn't got any worse and the mysteries of the Spanish irregular verb still continue to elude him.

We left with mixed emotions. On one hand we're eager to hit the road again and see more of this wonderful country in a process of fundamental political change. But Sucre had also grown on us after 4 weeks and we'll also miss the fun and interesting fellow students we were fortunate enough to study with.

Above is a picture from an event we attended in Sucre on October 7 to commemorate the 39th anniversary of the murder of Che Guevara at the hands of the CIA and the Bolivian armed forces. The night included a number of political speeches and revolutionary music to a crowd of around 150 people. It was sponsored by a range of local political organisations including the Bolivia-Cuba Friendship Society (or equivalent) and the Youth Wing of MAS. The speeches tested our Spanish to the limit but happily we understood more than we had expected. In many ways the night reminded us of similar Cuba solidarity events we've attended or helped organised back home with the DSP and Socialist Alliance. The main political thrust of the night was not simply that Guevara was an inspiring fighter against injustice but that there are millions of 'Che Guevaras' throughout Latin America today campaigning to effect genuine progressive change in the face of poverty and imperialism.

Honorary Cubans for a Night

We attended the event with a few other students from the Spanish school. We numbered a German, a Swiss, two Brits, two Australians, a Canadian, an American, two Bolivians and a Nigerian. So imagine our surprise when we realised that one of the speakers had just pointed up to us in the back row and thanked the comrades from Cuba for attending!!

At first we though it we must have misinterpreted but after two and then three more speakers made the same welcoming remarks to 'the Cuban comrades' we realised that our motely gringo crew has been mistaken for a Cuban delegation! Soon one of the organsers was approaching us to speak. We finally managed to clear up the confusion - although we both admitted later we were tempted to go with it and try making a brief speech in Spanish on behalf of Cuba :) So thats how we became honorary Cubans for an evening. Some of these imposters are pictured below.

Portrait of Evo in Casa de Libertad - not only is he the first indigenous president, he´s the only president, not wearing a neck tie in his official portrait!

This very cool potrait of Juana Azurduy De Padilla - a hero of Bolivia´s independence struggle - is in Sucre´s Casa de Libertad, where the initial Bolivian declaration of independence was signed. Simon Bolivar, also a hero of the Bolivian independence, struggle refused to sign the declaration as he believed all the former Spanish colonies should unite.

We´ve been in Sucre for 3 weeks now and although our Spanish is improving slowly its still very difficult to say or understand much more than ¨the cup is on the table¨or ïn the morning i brush my teeth after i have breakfast¨ - hardly very helpful for gaining a better understanding of the fascinating and volatile politics of the country. Last week there was a protest in the main plaza against attempts by the opposition party to block decisions regarding the formation of a new constitution by requiring a 2/3 rather than a simple majority vote on every article. The position of the governing party, MAS (stands for Movement towards Socialism but also means ¨more¨ in Spanish) was that each article should only need approval by a simple majority but for the new constitution itself to require a 2/3´s approval vote to pass. This week the Constituent Assembly adopted this position with a 2/3s majority vote, preventing constant blocking by an undemocratic minority. This means that the multitude of issues which face the Bolivian people - from oil nationalisation, to land reform, national independence and the rights of the indigenous majority - can begin to be addressed in a comprehensive way with a new and more democratic constitution. Above is a snap of some of the participants in the rally.